Projection screens are roughly treated in transportation.

I often think there are drivers who try to beat their personal best and throw the screen as far in the van as possible. Luckily, in-ceiling screens are pretty have (because of the in-ceiling housing).

But, that means they are dropped easily and happily by some drivers. Dropping an in ceiling screen could result in pressure on the outisde box that’s transferred onto the chassis of the projection screen.

Since the lower bar is a movable part, the transferred pressure can push it into the housing. Leaving you unable to roll down the projection screen fabric, because the lower bar is jammed.

There are clips put onto the lower bar to prevent this from happening. But, they are wrapped around the lower bar. So when the screen arrives, you could easily think to pull them off before the screen is rolled down.

But it doesn’t work that way.

This video shows you exactly how it’s done. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
The video applies to the Beamax in-ceiling projection screens

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If you have ever set up a very large stage screen, you know it can be tricky.

Especially when you’re on your own and the design is working against you.

That’s why these screens need to have a sturdy frame and easy to open hinges.

A strong frame allows you to put enough force of the frame to fold it into a small package after the show.
Easy-to-open hinges help you pack up and go faster.

The Beamax F2 series are that type of projection screen, as you can see in the instructional (short) video below.

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There are plenty of big projetion screens you can see here.

But what about small portable ones? The ones that go well with pico projectors?

Well here’s a demo of the Beamax Xlite portable projection screen with a 40″ diagonal and a weight of just 1 kg.

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The long-awaited part 2 of the series is here.

This video will give you the details of how you can make your own constant image width projection screen masking system.

Enjoy!

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A look at a black and white home cinema

by Otto on June 25, 2010

If you are starting from scratch, it would be easy to go all overboard with colors for your home theater.

And I bet you have seen some very opulent cinemas with gold, deep reds and velvets.
Don’t get me wrong, those are awesome.

But what if you just used black and white in the design of your home cinema?

Here’s what you could then get:

Get Adobe Flash player

Why do I think this is a great installation?

There are a number of things I like about this installation and I’ll give you the details per item

A. A black feature wall

A feature wall gives the room a focal point. A black feature wall is the ideal location to install the projection screen on. That’s because the black wall will reflect less ambient light and makes the projection stand out from its surroundings.

B. A fixed projection screen with black velvet border

Black velvet absorbs any overscan and nicely frames the images. This again contributes to the image stand out. The effect is that the perceived brightness is a lot higher.

C. No cables in sight

The screen and speakers are mounted on a false wall. This is perfect for hiding any cables. When you go for a clean design, hidden cables are a must.

D. Overall design

From the recessed lights to the way the room is finished, it all comes together very nicely. Like I mentioned before, creating a home cinema with a big impact doesn’t have to mean you go all-out on stuff & colours. By respecting the basics, you can go very far with a lot less. And that’s an art in itself.

I hope this installation gives you some food for thought for your own room.

Otto

Resources


Installer: Automize, UK www.automize.co.uk
Projection screen: Beamax A-velvet fixed frame screen

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When you don’t want to have your projection screen’s case in sight, building a pelmet can be a great solution.

First of all, it’s one of the least expensive ways to hide your projection screens. Secondly, a pelmet can run all around the room, making it a real design element.

In this first photo, you wouldn’t even guess there was a projection screen in the room. Have a look:

Image of a projector screen hidden behind a pelmet

Now, it seems like there there’s just the TV and some serious speakers. No sign of a projection screen at all.

But at the press of a button, the room turn into a serious cinema, as you can see here:

Image of a projector screen hidden behind a pelmet with the projection screen fabric rolled out

As you can see, only now is the projection screen fully visible. And it changes the look of the room completely.

The pelmet makes the room look a lot better, because the screen’s white housing would have stood out from the wall. That’s because even though the wall is white, it has a very visible structure. The white aluminium case of the screen would have been visible.

And the power cord particularly, would have stood out.

The real trick of making the pelmet solution work, is to make effective use of colour. Here the colour of the pelmet is used in different parts of the room. This ensures the pelmet doesn’t stand out, but is a part of the design.

In the image below, you can see exactly where the colour of the pelmet has been used:

Image that shows where colors are used to make the pelmet blend in

This screen was installed by a professional home cinema installation company in France. You can use this design as inspiration for your home theater room, or you can ask an installation company to come up with a unique design for your room.

And as always, if you have questions or comments, do let me know.

Otto

Resources

Installer: Alliance, France contact: alliance.40@orange.fr
Projection screen: Beamax M-series

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3 essentials for a home cinema

by Otto on June 21, 2010

If you’re starting with a home cinema or home theater, it’s difficult to know exactly where to begin.

I’ll give you a fresh perspective. And that’s seen from an image-quality point of view. I am not looking at specific brands or models, but a general idea of the things you need to think of.

There’s an overview here and you’ll get a detailed explanation after the graphic:

graphic of the 3 essentials for home theater: ambient light, seating distance / size and systems


The 3 essentials are:

- Ambient light
- Seating distance / screen size
- The system

1. Ambient light

First, let’s look at what ambient light really is. I define it as all the light that’s not coming from your projector.

The main source of ambient light would be sunlight. Especially when you want to use your projector during the day, the sun will have a massive effect. But lamps in a dark room can seriously influence the quality of the image on your screen.

If you want to have the best possible image quality, you need to reduce the amount of ambient light as much as possible.

In the evening, that means turning of the lights, or dimiming them as much as possible. Some trial and error will quickly tell you what the best settings are. Because pitch black is great for projection, but can be a pain when you want to get a drink and forgot about the toys your kid has left on the floor.

A useful tip: If you can program your light levels, make sure you have a “cinema” setting, that’ll automatically dim the light levels to what you like most.

To reduce ambient light from the sun, blackout blinds are your best option. Make sure the material you get has 0% opacity, otherwise light would still come through. If blinds are not your thing, heavy curtains are a good choice too. Alternatively, you could install roller shutters (I have done that at home), which not only black out your room, but add an element of burglary protection as well as thermal insulation.

Reflected ambient light

Ambient light can also be reflected, which means that even when the sun is not shining directly onto your screen, it can still have an effect. White walls can be a part of a great design, but at the same time, they’re perfect for sunlight that’ll bounce onto your screen (to some extent of course).

To reduce this effect, you can make your walls darker and give them less smooth. If it’s a bit too much to colour your whole room black, focus on the walls closest to the screen. A focal wall (which we have seen in this home theater), can work really well. Both when the screen is in use and when the projection screen is rolled in.

Now that you know the effect of ambient light, let’s look at the right size of your projection screen and the seating distance.

2. Projection screen size and seating distance

Bigger is better. It’s that simple when it comes to home theater. Because the bigger the screen, the more life-like and immersive your movies will be.

One of most difficult question then becomes: How can I determine the right projection screen size and at what distance should I be from the screen?

For HD projection, THX has nicely defined a handy calculation, which says that you should divide the diagonal of your screen by 0.84 to get the right seating distance.

Let’s look at a few common projection screen sizes and the ideal seating distance for each of them:

Projection screen diagonalIdeal seating distance
77" / 196 cm92" / 233 cm
92" / 234 cm110" / 279 cm
106" / 269 cm126" / 320 cm
120" / 305 cm143" / 363 cm

Now, let’s flip things around and look at viewing distance to determine screen size. This is really helpful when you already know where you want to sit, but are unsure of which projector screen size to go for.

Seating distanceIdeal projection screen size (diagonal)
6 ft / 183 cm60" / 154218 cm
7 ft / 213 cm70" / 179 cm
8 ft / 244 cm81" / 205 cm
9 ft / 274 cm91" / 230 cm
10 ft / 305 cm101" / 256 cm
11 ft / 335 cm111" / 281 cm
12 ft / 366 cm 121" / 307 cm
13 ft / 396 cm131" / 332 cm

The seating distance might come as a surprise for you, since you’re able to sit quite close to the screen. That’s because THX is really all about immersive home theater.

That’s why you should really use these numbers as a guideline.  From the Beamax projection screen sales figures, the most popular sizes are (in descending order): 92″, 106″, 77″, 120″. That’s a lot smaller than the THX guidelines would suggest as the most popular sizes, since most people would be about 3 meters (10 ft) away from the screen. This distance would give you a projector screen diagonal of 140″.

So here’s what I would do:

1. Use the THX numbers as a guideline

2. Make your projector project an image the size THX indicates and project that onto the wall

3. Sit where you think you’ll place your seats

4. Watch a movie and find out whether it’s a comfortable size for you.

5. When yes, buy your projection screen, when not, either sit further away or shrink the projection to a comfortable size.

When you really don’t know, I recommend a 106″ diagonal 16:9 screen.

Something to keep in mind when choosing your screen size

The bigger the projection screen, the more it demands from your projector. This means that for big screens, you need quality projectors. Both in terms of the resolution (because each pixel will be enlarged more on a bigger screen) and in terms of brightness (the light is spread over a bigger surface).

Keep that in mind, because you don’t want to lose the effect of a crisp image in favour of something bigger.

This also brings me to the third step: the home theater system’s components.

Look at the whole system, not just one component

As a projection screen expert, it’d be to say it’s all about the screen. That’s not the case though, because it’s about the whole system.

All parts need to come together to create a quality picture on your screen. And once you have the room taken care of, it’s time to look at all the parts.
Again, I am not going to recommend certain brands or models, as there are so many options. Plus..technolgy changes rapidly, so what’s great now, is outdated in some time.

The necessary elements for a projection screen set up are:
1. The source
The source is the material you are going to play. Most often, this will be a DVD. But it can also be digital material from a set top box for example. Make sure the material is of good quality and have realistic expectations of what you get on your screen.
If you have low quality material (in a low resolution), then it will not look great on a screen. That’s because the original material is blown up to the size of your projection screen. If there are only a few pixels that can be enlarged, the result of course will be a lot less detailed than when you have the same image built up from a lot more pixels.

2. Connections / cables
It’s so easy to just take that yellow/white/red cable from the box and use that to connect your player. If you do that, you have just eliminated any chance seeing HD projection on your screen.
That’s because different cables allow for different qualities of images. Without going into too much detail, the cables to go for are either HDMI or component.

Make sure your player’s output matches your projector’s input, or you won’t be able to connect the 2 of them.

3. Players
A DVD player is a common player for movies, but a games console is more and more often used to play games and movies with. Not every player is built the same way, so keep that in mind when you want a system that performs well.

These days, your player should really be able to play high definition material and have an HDMI output.

A PS3 is a very popular player for both games and BlueRay DVDs, so a good option if you enjoy movies and games. If you don’t play games, a dedicated player would be a better option.

4. Projector
The projector is the device that ensures the image is projected onto the screen.

There are many different brands and models on the market, so there’s plenty to chose from. Just make sure it’s HD and has HDMI inputs. This will ensure you can project a high definition image.

5. Projection screen

Projection screens come in different shapes and types.

If you have a dedicated room, a fixed frame screen is your best choice. That’s because it has a perfectly flat image, one of the most important elements of a projection screen. To get the same effect from a retractable screen, you need to go for a tensioned projection screen.

When it comes to fabrics, matt white is your best bet. There are many different other fabrics available, but don’t go for anything else, unless you have done your projection screen fabric research.

System approach

The best approach to your system would be start with something good and upgrade from there. Some things aren’t really expensive to begin with, such as cables and source material.

Make sure it all fits together. Start with decent material and upgrade from there.

Bringing it all together

OK, we have had a lot of theory here. I want to leave a final thought here. Let’s assume you have a budget. How do you spend it?

Well, here’s how I would use my budget:
- Start with decent curtains / black out blinds. Control over ambient light and an OK projector beats loads of ambient light and a 20,000 euro/usd projector.
- Spend the rest of the budget equally on audio and video. Allocate money from the video and the audio budget for a decent amplifier, which is the heart of your system.
- Of the video budget, go for a good projector and a good screen. That means an HD projector and a wrinkle free screen.
- Spend the rest on cables and players and some DVD’s

Alright, there you have it. A concise approach to get a great home cinema.

If you have any questions or comments, do let me know!

Otto


Resources

- THX guidelines for seating distance and screen size

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Sure, a low price can be tempting.

Plus, on the net, all projection screens look the same, right?

That’s true, but an often-overlooked aspect of projection screens is..how easy they are to use.

Now, I want to bet there are some devices that you’ve put in a drawer because they are impossible to use. Or worse..have thrown into pieces because you got so angry.

I can get where you’re coming from. And so can these women by the way:

So when you are going to buy a manual projection screen, make sure you get one that’s easy to operate. Say..a screen that even a 2.5 year old can roll in and out:

It will save you a lot of frustration.

Otto

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I was doing some more research about the projection screen history, when I saw a nice ad from the 50′s for a Da-lite tripod projection screen.

It’s a nice advertisement and you can get quite a lot of information about home cinema and projection screens in those days:
- Projection screens were then called “slide and movie screens”
- A tripod was the norm for home cinema
- Screens could be had for $3.50

Fun stuff!

Here’s the ad, with some more information about cinema in those days here.

da-lite tripod projection screen from the 50's

A da-lite advertisement from those days, thanks to nesster: www.flickr.com/photos/nesster/

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Masking systems are expensive. They easily cost thousands.

Yet, there’s surprisingly little special material required. All the parts required can be bought for a very low price.

That brings the cost of your DIY masking system down a lot. The one that was used in the video cost around 200 USD.
That’s because we re-used some materials (the cost do not include the projection fabric).

The biggest expense will be:
1. the tubular motor
2. the MDF frame
3. the spring in the lower tube

All the other components, like the velvet, base material for the masks and the small fixtures and fittings are very inexpensive.

In this video, you’ll see how the masking system works. In the follow up video, you’ll get a detailed overview of how to construct it all.

If you have any questions, let me know.

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